E pili ana i ke kumu a me ke koho ʻana i ka pālule Aloha

Nā ʻano lole lole RAYON

ʻO ka hulu pālua ----------- Ua hoʻomākaukau ʻia nā laina warp (vertical) a me ka weft (horizontal) me ka ʻenehana textile horizontal a me ke kūpaʻa (flat weaving) o RAYON long fiber (thin continuous fiber).He laumania ka ʻili a waiwai i ka māmā, a loaʻa iā ia nā hiʻohiʻona o ke kino palupalu.
He like ka hulu pālua me ka lole keʻokeʻo maʻemaʻe loa.Ma ʻEulopa a me ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa, ua kapa ʻia ka siliki keʻokeʻo maʻemaʻe ʻo "Habutae" ma ka ʻōlelo Pelekania.ʻO RAYON (ka lole RAYON keʻokeʻo maʻemaʻe e like me ke kilika keʻokeʻo maʻemaʻe) e like me kēia ʻano hulu pālua i hoʻohana hou ʻia ma nā pālule ALOHA i nā makahiki 1940 a me nā makahiki mua o 1950, ka nui o nā huahana ALOHA SHIRT.
FUJIET ---------- Hana ʻia ka warp (vertical) me ka fiber lōʻihi o RAYON, a ʻo ka weft (horizontal) i hana ʻia me ka fiber pōkole RAYON (ʻoki pōkole ʻōpala ------, he kumu kūʻai- ka ho'ēmi 'ana i ka ho'ohana 'ana i ka 'ōpala), 'o ia ho'i he lole 'olo a me ke kūpale (flat weaving).No ka mea, he lahilahi loa ka pulupulu RAYON pono'ī, 'oiai inā ho'ohana 'ia ka nui o nā pulu pōkole, 'a'ole i 'oko'a loa ka 'ili o ka lole mai ka hulu lua RAYON lole o ka pulu lō'ihi piha, a 'oi aku ka maika'i ma mua o ka hulu pālua RAYON lole a hiki. e hana ʻia ma ke kumu kūʻai haʻahaʻa.
No ka mea, ua hana ʻia ka weft me nā pulupulu pōkole, ʻoi aku ka mānoanoa o ka lole ma mua o ka hulu pālua RAYON.No ka mea, pili loa ka manaʻo i ka FUJI SILK, i kapa ʻia ʻo FUJIET.
Ua hoʻohana ʻia ʻo FUJIET ma nā pālule ALOHA mai ka makahiki 1950.Ua hana ʻia ko Duke Kahanamoku PALELU ALOHA me FUJIET.
ʻO ka pulupulu hoʻoemi pā ----------- Hana ʻia ka warp (vertical) me ke kaula ʻaʻole i hoʻopaʻa ʻia (unwisted textile fiber thread), a ʻo ka weft (horizontal thread) i hana ʻia me ke kaula pā (me ka laina nui e like me ka axis a me kahi milo pulupulu mānoanoa i wili ʻia ma luna o ia mea), a ua hana ʻia ka lole like me ke kaula palahalaha a me ka weft.
He hiʻona concave-convex kona ili.No ka mea, ua like loa ia pu'upu'u me ka pepa ki'i pepa, ua kapa 'ia 'o WALL SILK ma ka 'ōlelo Pelekania.
Ma mua, ʻo kēia ʻano ʻano lole lole concave a convex mai Iapana mai, ʻo ka mea i hoʻohana ʻia ma Iapana he siliki, ʻo Iapana wale nō, hoʻohana ʻia i ke kimono, he ʻano lole kimono kiʻekiʻe e hōʻike ana i ka nani o ka concave a me ka convex a manaʻo.
Ua hoʻohana ʻia ke ʻano hana lole like ma Hawaiʻi i ka waena o 1930s a me ka 1950s mua ma hope o ke kālepa ʻana ma waena o Iapana a me ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa i wehe hou ʻia (ua pau ke kālepa ma hope o ke kaua ma waena o Iapana a me ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa), akā ʻo kēia lole pā concave a concave. i hana ʻia me ka fiber RAYON i hoʻohana ʻia ma nā pālule ALOHA me nā ʻano kuʻuna o nā kimono Kepani.
Ma muli o ka like o ka ʻili me ka concave a me ka convex o ka pepa pepa pepa, hoʻokahi wale nō ala e hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia no ka pena lima lima, no laila ʻaʻole hiki i nā mea hana lima ke hōʻoia i ka piʻi ʻana o ke kumukūʻai manual, i hui pū ʻia me ka holomua o ka hana ʻoihana nui. ʻAʻole ʻike hou ʻia nā lole ma hope o nā makahiki 1960.
He nawaliwali ko RAYON ALOHA.ʻO ia hoʻi, e hoʻopili ʻia ka emi ʻana e ke ʻano hoʻomaʻemaʻe, a ʻoi aku ka paʻakikī o ka emi ʻana.No laila ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka hoʻolilo kālā hou aku e hoʻouna i ka holoi lole kūikawā no ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe.Inā hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻoe iā ʻoe iho, e kāwili mālie e like me ka hiki.
Aia kekahi "ʻAʻole hiki iaʻu ke hana i kahi hoʻomaʻemaʻe pilikia, akā ua kāwili māmā ʻia, a hoʻouna ʻia i ka holoi lole?"A i ʻole makemake "He ʻoluʻolu maikaʻi!"E nā hoaaloha, a laila, hoʻokomo pololei i loko o ka mīkini holoi e holoi ai ua OK, akā ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka hoʻokomo ʻana i ka ʻupena holoi e pale ai i ka lole mai ka holoi ʻana.
Inā he mau hoaaloha makemake e ʻike pehea e hoʻomaʻemaʻe ai i ka PALE ALOHA ma ke ʻano maikaʻi loa, a laila e hana i kahi hoʻolauna kūikawā ma hope.
ALOHA LOLE lole alii wahine -- SILK
Ma ka moolelo oLOLE ALOHA, ua hana mua ia me nā kimono i lawe ʻia e nā poʻe malihini Kepani i Hawaiʻi.No laila, ʻo ka mea kimono waiwai nui, ʻo ia ke kilika o ka mea silika, ʻo ka PALELU ALOHA o nā mea silika ʻo ia hoʻi ka PALE ALOHA kiʻekiʻe loa, akā ʻo ka mea mua loa a me nā mea hou loa.Inā he kimono a he lole komohana paha, ua hoʻokumu mau ke siliki i ke kūlana o nā mea kiʻekiʻe.
Mai ka moʻomeheu o Iapana's Meiji Restoration a hiki i ka hoʻololi ʻana i ka ʻoihana, ma hope o ke kaua ma mua o ke kaua ʻo Taisho/Showa au, noho ka siliki i kahi kūlana koʻikoʻi i ka hoʻopuka ʻana o Iapana i nā mea kūʻai aku.ʻO ka ʻenehana Sericulture a me ka ʻenehana silika i hele mua mai Kina, akā ua laha pū i nā ʻāina ʻEulopa, akā ma o ka hoʻoikaika a me ka hana ikaika o nā mea hana Kepani iā ​​lākou iho, ua hana ʻia nā huahana siliki honua honua, i ka wā mua o ka Qing Dynasty, ua kūʻai ʻia ke siliki Iapana. hoʻi i Kina, kaulana loa.No laila, mahalo ʻia ke kilika Kepani e ka poʻe Komohana, a ma hope mai i hōʻike ʻia i loko o ka POLE ALOHA i aloha nui ʻia.
Hana ʻia ke kilika i nā mea silika, no laila hiki ke hoʻoluʻu lima wale ʻia, no laila ke kiʻekiʻe ke kumukūʻai.Ua hana maʻamau ʻia nā pālule ALOHA (a me nā lole ʻē aʻe) i hana ʻia i ke kilika i ka makahiki 1930 a hiki i ka makahiki 1950.
No laila, kakaikahi loa nā mea VINTAGE a nui loa ke kumukūʻai, a he mea paʻakikī i nā brand reproduction o kēia lā ke hoʻohana i ia mau lole no ka hana ʻana.I kekahi manawa aia nā kaha kiʻi, ʻaʻole haʻahaʻa kona kumukūʻai a liʻiliʻi loa ka helu, no laila hiki ke kapa ʻia ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā mea kahiko i ulana ʻia i ka lole silika ALOHA SHIRT kiʻi kiʻi ALOHA SHIRT o ka maikaʻi loa.
He maikaʻi loa ka manaʻo o ka ʻili lole silika, e like me ka mea kahiko o Kina a me nā aliʻi ʻEulopa a me ʻAmelika aloha, ʻo ka siliki kahi mea kūlohelohe maoli, no laila hiki i nā poʻe me ka ʻili allergies ke hoʻohana, ʻo nā mea siliki ka maloʻo maloʻo a me ka manaʻo breathable. , hiki i ka lā kauwela ke pale i ka ʻili i ka manawa like maloʻo a hanu.ʻAʻole hiki ke pani ʻia e kekahi mea ʻē aʻe.
ʻO ka nāwaliwali o ka mea silika ka makaʻu i ka ʻino ʻana o ka hou, no laila pono e holoi pinepine ʻia, he palupalu a paʻakikī loa ka mālama ʻana i ka mea, ʻoi aku ka pilikia o ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻana, maʻalahi ke ʻai ʻia e nā iniseti, a ʻO ka mālama ʻana i nā mea hoʻomake ʻino.E like me ka wahine palupalu e pono ke mālama ʻia.
I kēia manawa, nui ka helu o nāLOLE ALOHAlole ---- pulupulu maemae
He mea maikai loa ka pulupulu.He mea maʻalahi ke kūʻai nui ʻana i ka mea pono, me nā pālule ALOHA i hana ʻia i ka pulupulu ʻo ia ka mea liʻiliʻi a nui loa.Paʻa a maʻalahi hoʻi e hoʻomaʻemaʻe ma ka makemake.Eia kekahi, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi ma mua o ka RAYON a me ka siliki i ka wela wicking.
Aneane ole nawaliwali, ina ka nawaliwali, ma ka hoʻohui i ka like shrinkage a me ka wrinkle, 'o ia hoʻi, ma hope o ka lōʻihi manawa o ka hoʻohana a me ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe ma hope o ka mae ana ma mua o nā mea'ē aʻe, akā, i kekahi poʻe manaʻo i keia no hoi he ono.
Ua hānau mua ʻia ʻo ALOHA SHIRT o nā huahana pulupulu ma waena o ka makahiki 1950 a ʻo ia ka lole ALOHA SHIRT, i hānau nui ʻia ma ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa ma muli o ka mana o ke ʻano ALOHA SHIRT.Ma hope mai, ua hoʻomaka nā ʻāina paionia o ALOHA SHIRT e like me Hawaiʻi e hana nui i nā huahana makamae i mea e pani ai i nā huahana makamae no ka lehulehu.
Hiki ke kūʻai ʻia nā pālule ALOHA ma nā wahi ʻē aʻe i kēia mau lā, ʻo ia hoʻi ma Hawaiʻi, akā ʻo ka hapa nui i hana ʻia i ka pulupulu a me nā mea hou.Inā makemake ʻoe e kūʻai i ka ALOHA SHIRT pattern mai ka makahiki 1950, hiki iā ʻoe ke kūʻai wale i ka ALOHA SHIRT pattern/finish/a me ke kumu hoʻohālike o ka pālule Aloha ʻAmelika mua i ka pulupulu wale nō ke koho ʻoe i ke ʻano kope.
He aha ke ʻano o ka LOLE ALOHA e kūʻai ai?
Ma waho aʻe o nā lole i ʻōlelo ʻia ma luna, aia nā pālule ALOHA i hana ʻia me nā mea i hoʻohui ʻia e like me ka fiber kemika.No ka mea, ʻaʻole i ʻike ʻia i ka makahiki gula o ALOHA SHIRT ma ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa i ka wā i hala, ua hoʻohana ʻia ia i nā pālule pua like ʻole i kēia lā (nā pālule pua maʻamau e like me nā wahine waena a me nā ʻelemakule ma Kina). ʻaʻole ia he hoʻolauna pōkole.
No laila, inā ʻoe e kūʻai i ka LOLE ALOHA maoli, pono ʻoe e noʻonoʻo mua i ʻelua mau mea:
1) Makemake au i nā hiʻohiʻona o kēia wā a me nā ʻano like ʻole (nā huahana makaikai Hawaiʻi).
2) Aloha i ke ʻano ALOHA SHIRT a me ke kala o ke au kahiko o ʻAmelika.
Ma hope o ka hoʻoholo ʻana i ka 1) a i ʻole 2) ma luna, e noʻonoʻo i ka ʻokoʻa ma waena o nā lole a me nā ʻokoʻa maʻalahi i hōʻike ʻia e kēlā me kēia lole.ʻO ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, nui nā ʻokoʻa maʻalahi, ʻoi aku ka nui o ka wā i hala i ka wā i kaulana ai ka ALOHA SHIRT ma ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa.
------------------ he ʻano Iapana kuʻuna.E like me: carp, Mount Fuji, a pela aku me ka hana hou ole.Hele mai lākou a pau mai nā hiʻohiʻona o nā kimono Iapana kahiko.
Kakau komohana ------------------- Nā hiʻohiʻona punahele o ke Komohana.E like me: ʻo ka mea ʻoi loa ke ʻano o ka pua Hawaiʻi, pineapple, kumu niu a pēlā aku.
プルオーバー ----------HUMI.He ʻano huki huki.
Ma hope aʻe, e hoʻomau mākou i ka hoʻolauna ʻana i kekahi o nā mea koʻikoʻi o ka ALOHA SHIRT charm "nā pihi".
ʻO ke kamaʻilio ʻana e pili ana i ka "pōkole" he mea nui hoʻi i ka nani o ALOHA SHIRT.Nui nā ʻano pihi i hoʻohana ʻia ma nā pālule ALOHA.Hoʻokumu nā pihi ʻokoʻa i kahi manaʻo ALOHA SHIRT ʻē aʻe.
ʻO nā pihi maʻamau: ʻohe / niu / ʻili / metala, a pēlā aku.He ʻokoʻa ka nui a me ke ʻano o nā pihi waiwai like, a ʻokoʻa nā manaʻo like ʻole.ʻO ka mea nui, ʻokoʻa nā pihi ma nā manawa like ʻole a me nā ʻāpana, a ʻokoʻa nā pihi ma nā pālule ALOHA e like me ka wā i kūʻai ʻia ai nā pālule Aloha.Hiki i nā mea hoʻokae ALOHA SHIRT akamai ke hoʻomaopopo i ka manawa hana o ALOHA SHIRT ma muli o nā pihi.
Eia nā ʻano nui a me nā hiʻohiʻona o nā pihi
ʻOhe -------------- ʻO ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ʻohe me ka ʻiʻo fiber paʻa, ke one a me ka hoʻohana lōʻihi e ʻike ʻia he ʻeleʻele uliuli.He kiʻekiʻe ka nui o ka ʻiʻo fiber kokoke i ke kumu o ka ʻohe.ʻO ka ALOHA SHIRT kuʻuna Iapana i nā makahiki 1950 i hoʻohana nui ʻia i kēia pihi ʻohe, no ka mea hiki ke hoʻohana i ke aʻa hoʻokahi wale nō, ʻaʻole nui ka nui o nā mea pihi i hōʻiliʻili ʻia, a ʻo ke kaʻina hana polishing pihi he manual, no laila ua hoʻohana wale ʻia ma ALOHA. SHIRT ma mua o 1930 a i ka waena o 1950.
ʻO ka niu --------------- ʻO nā pihi i hana ʻia mai ka huli niu ka mea maʻamau.ʻOi aku ka maʻalahi o ke kālai ʻana i nā ʻano like ʻole a me nā nui like ʻole.Ua hoʻohana ka poʻe hana ALOHA SHIRT Hawaiʻi mai ka makahiki 1930 a hiki i ka makahiki 1950 i kēia pihi ma nā pālule ALOHA me nā hiʻohiʻona pua o ke komohana.
Shell -------------- Ke hoʻohana nei i ka ʻili pepeke keʻokeʻo/ʻeleʻele ʻeleʻele ʻeleʻele i hoʻohuli ʻia i waho o nā pihi, me ka ʻike maopopo a me ka nani nani.Ua hoʻohana nui ʻia i nā pālule kuʻuna ʻano Iapana o nā makahiki 1930 a me nā pālule ALOHA i hana ʻia i ke kilika ma hope o ke kaua.Hoʻohana ʻia i ke kāʻei kumukūʻai kiʻekiʻe SHIRT.ʻOi aku ka ʻoi aku ka holomua o nā pihi e hoʻoheheʻe i nā pūpū e hāʻawi iā lākou i kahi ʻano kala kūʻokoʻa.
Nā pihi metala --------------- Nā pihi metala.Hana ʻia ka ʻili o ka pihi i ke kālā kahiko/ ʻaoʻao ʻaoʻao o ke koa/ King KAMEHAMEHA (Native Hawaiian King)/heraldry etc. ua hoʻohana ʻia ma nā lole kilika (silk) a me nā pālule ALOHA me kekahi mau hiʻohiʻona hoʻomanaʻo.